A Masterpiece in Miniature: The Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan Blends Korean Art with Italian Craftsmanship
The world of horology is a fascinating intersection of precision engineering and artistic expression. For over a decade, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo collection has been at the forefront of this convergence, consistently pushing the boundaries of ultra-thin watchmaking. In a testament to its iconic status and unique octagonal personality, the brand has frequently collaborated with leading artists and architects to transform its timepieces into wearable works of art. The latest of these collaborations is a remarkable partnership with renowned Korean artist Lee Ufan, resulting in a limited-edition watch that captures the essence of his artistic philosophy.
The Octo Finissimo: A Canvas for Creativity
Since its debut in 2017 as the world’s thinnest automatic movement, the Octo Finissimo Automatic has served as the perfect canvas for creative expression. Its clean, ultra-slim profile offers a minimalist stage that highlights a designer’s vision. This is a tradition that has seen impressive results, from the mesmerizing dials of Japanese architects Tadao Ando and Kazuyo Sejima to the edgy, laser-engraved tattoo models by artist Mo Coppoletta.
The latest collaboration with Lee Ufan is particularly noteworthy, as it translates his signature artistic themes into a compelling, three-dimensional form. Lee Ufan, a prominent figure in the Japanese Mono-ha (object school) movement, is known for his work that explores the relationship between natural and man-made objects. His “Relatum” series, which juxtaposes raw stones with reflective mirrors or steel plates, directly inspires this new timepiece.
The watch is a fascinating study in contrasts. While the classic Octo Finissimo is often celebrated for its sleek, sandblasted surfaces, the collaboration with Ufan introduces a raw, tactile dimension. The 40mm titanium case and integrated bracelet are hand-filed to create a series of deliberate, crisscrossing patterns. This unique surface, reminiscent of a meteorite’s texture, does not detract from the watch’s complex geometry. Instead, it interacts with light and shadow in a way that emphasizes the powerful, multi-faceted design of the Octo Finissimo.
In stark contrast to this textured exterior, the round, sunray-brushed stainless steel bezel frames a serene, mirror-effect dial. This dial is the heart of Ufan’s vision, recreating the visual effect of his mirror and steel plate sculptures. Without any branding or inscriptions, the dial’s quiet minimalism allows the wearer’s reflection and the surrounding environment to become part of the art piece. The skeletonized hour and minute hands and the small seconds hand at 7 o’clock are discreetly rendered in black, ensuring they do not disturb the dial’s contemplative quality.
Behind this artistic exterior lies a mechanical marvel. The watch’s ultra-slim profile of just 5.15mm is made possible by the in-house BVL 138 automatic caliber, a movement that measures a mere 2.23mm thick. This remarkable feat of micro-engineering is equipped with a platinum micro-rotor and a robust 60-hour power reserve.
The sapphire caseback, laser-engraved with Lee Ufan’s signature, offers a window into the movement’s intricate details. It is decorated with refined finishes, including Geneva stripes, circular graining on the mainplate, and beautifully beveled angles. This dedication to both external artistry and internal mechanical excellence is a hallmark of Bulgari’s approach to high horology.
The Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari is a limited edition of just 150 pieces, making it a highly exclusive collector’s item. It is a timepiece that transcends its function, serving as a philosophical object that invites reflection on the relationship between humanity, nature, and art. The watch is a testament to the idea that a timepiece can be more than a tool for telling time; it can be a profound statement, a piece of wearable sculpture that bridges different worlds.
