In the course of the past 11 years, Van Cleef & Arpels has been an active participant in the Fine Art and Antique Fair, TEFAF, held in Maastricht, where an array of masterpieces spanning various disciplines is showcased, ranging from ancient artworks to exquisite paintings by grandmasters, and even High Jewelry creations.
As an integral part of this esteemed exhibition, slated for this year from March 9th to 14th, the Maison presents seven distinctive pieces: five hailing from its Heritage collection and two contemporary artworks. A fusion of tradition and contemporaneity, they serve as a testament to the Maison’s rich history, innovative ethos, and cherished sources of inspiration.
The Heritage collection comprises nearly 120 antique and High Jewelry pieces available for acquisition, all meticulously crafted by Van Cleef & Arpels between the 1920s and the 1990s. For the latest installment of TEFAF Maastricht, Van Cleef & Arpels has singled out two Leaf clips from the 1940s and three creations from the 1960s.
The world of flora serves as an endless wellspring of inspiration for the Maison, as evidenced by these two leaf-shaped clips. Exhibiting a subtle asymmetry with finesse, their contours pay homage to the dynamic vitality and emotive spontaneity inherent in nature.
The initial creation from 1943, characterized by its crisp lines, boasts a gleaming gold surface adorned with star-set diamonds reminiscent of those adorning Van Cleef & Arpels’ iconic Ludo bracelets since the 1930s.
The 1947 Leaf clip features a sinuous central vein embellished with a succession of square rubies, framed by a yellow gold border accentuating the intense purple hue of the gems. Adorned with an array of diamonds in various sizes, this piece exemplifies Van Cleef & Arpels’ post-war return to the intricately detailed naturalistic aesthetic reminiscent of the late 19th century.
Among the Maison’s iconic creations, such as the Zip necklace or the Cadenas watch, the Minaudière stands out as a quintessential signature piece. In 1933, as Charles Arpels observed an American client stowing away her essentials in a metal box, the concept of this refined jewelry case was born, eventually contributing to Van Cleef & Arpels’ global renown.
Featuring a mirror and ingeniously designed compartments, the 1961 Minaudière enabled women to carry essentials such as lipstick, calling cards, and a cigarette case during evening soirées. This piece, dear to the Maison, reflects the world of haute couture with a delicately woven gold texture. The clasp, adorned with a row of graduated diamonds, adds sophistication to this objet d’art.
The fourth highlight on display is a pair of earrings adorned with large deep-blue sapphires, accentuated by the rose cut, an ancient faceting technique dating back to the 16th century, renowned for its subtle and captivating brilliance. Rubies, pear-shaped emeralds, and diamonds accompany these sapphires. Paired with yellow gold, these shimmering cascades of gemstones, swaying with the wearer’s movements, would have perfectly complemented the fashionable short “pixie” hairstyles of the 1960s. These elements are detachable to adapt to various occasions or the owner’s preferences, in line with Maison’s longstanding tradition of transformable jewelry.
Lastly, a 1968 bracelet takes center stage, featuring fifteen meticulously paired azure blue cabochons of turquoise, interspersed with eight vivid violet amethysts, accented by the brilliance of twenty-seven diamonds. This vibrant interplay of fine, decorative, and precious stones presents a lively color palette, showcased by an intricate openwork and articulated structure in twisted yellow gold. Round in shape, this striking bracelet with rich textural nuances epitomizes the aesthetic of 1970s jewelry, offering versatile wear from day to night.
Van Cleef & Arpels also introduces two unique High Jewelry pieces, epitomizing its artistic repertoire: a Between the Finger ring adorned with a delicate multicolored butterfly and a ballerina clip inspired by haute couture. These creations underscore the Maison’s reverence for both dance and nature, two realms that infuse grace and lightness into the most precious materials.
The Léonore ballerina clip portrays a ballerina named Léonore donning a voluminous openwork skirt adorned with diamonds of varying sizes, evoking the appearance of delicate lace. Crafted entirely in white gold, her visage, crowned with a tiara, is symbolized by a rose-cut diamond flanked by baguette-cut diamonds, a hallmark of the Maison. A bodice and ballet slippers accentuate this harmonious composition edged in yellow gold, adorned with round, vibrant blue sapphires. A final touch of refinement comes in the form of a belt composed of fine gold beads, accentuating the dancer’s waist. Emblematic of Van Cleef & Arpels’ ethos, this creation continues a longstanding tradition of clips that elegantly marry the worlds of fashion and dance, originating from Louis Arpels’ fascination with ballet in the 1940s.
Since its inception in 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels has excelled in capturing the enchanting beauty of nature, with the butterfly standing as one of its most vibrant symbols. This joyful creation, inspired by the Battus philenor butterfly found in America, is a testament to this dedication. Its wings, adorned with rich hues and intricate patterns, are meticulously recreated through onyx, turquoise, and white mother-of-pearl marquetry. Enhanced by shimmering pink sapphires and dazzling diamonds, including a 2.5-carat diamond, this Between the Finger ring creates the illusion of a delicate butterfly perched upon the hand, offering versatile wear options as the butterfly rotates according to the wearer’s preference, thanks to an ingenious mechanism. Symbolic of the Maison’s innovative spirit, this creation from the 1970s combines an open ring design with an elegant asymmetrical aesthetic. With a specialized polishing technique that imparts a matte finish, rose gold and white gold harmonize seamlessly in this piece, radiating cheerfulness and sophistication, a testament to Van Cleef & Arpels’ expertise and penchant for transformable jewelry.
