Photo: PP Ltd

What Eight Enthusiasts Could Not Find in Phoebe Philo’s Initial Collection—and Why They Couldn’t

By Jessica Pena

Delving into the intricacies of Phoebe Philo's debut collection through the lens of eight devoted enthusiasts unveils the elusive elements that remained just out of reach. Uncover the nuances that sparked curiosity and the reasons behind their absence, as we dissect the initial collection that set the stage for an iconic fashion era.

Key Takeaways
  • Explore the dissonance between the pre-release anticipation and the actual contents of Phoebe Philo's inaugural collection.
  • Unveil the unmet expectations of enthusiasts and the elements that left them yearning for more.

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It was the year’s most significant fashion drop. Designer Phoebe Philo made a big splash last week when she unveiled her eagerly anticipated first collection. The collection, which Vogue’s Sarah Mower described as “confident and uncompromising,” emphasized Philo’s understated chic style while paying homage to some of the iconic pieces she helped establish during her tenure as Celine’s creative director (from 2008 to 2017). Luxurious leather purses, fitted shirts and jackets, fun jewelry, and some delectable square-toed shoes were all there. 

Most fashion enthusiasts praised the collection’s clean, contemporary items as soon as they were made available online. Many talked about the astounding costs as well. For example, Philo’s new giant XL Cabas tote bag costs $8,500, while the hand-combed embroidered coat has no price stated at all. However, it didn’t stop loyal fans of Philo from purchasing certain wardrobe essentials; in fact, many of the products on Philo’s website still need to be sold out. 

Nevertheless, several fortunate customers managed to grab the bag physically, and Vogue was immediately curious as to why these things had struck such a deep chord. Therefore, we spoke with eight Philophiles to learn more about their opinions of the decline and what they could and could not purchase. 

Nordstrom’s director of women’s fashion, Rickie De Sole

What Eight Enthusiasts Could Not Find in Phoebe Philo's Initial Collection—and Why They Couldn't
Photo: PP Ltd

These pumps are sold out now, so I’m pleased I purchased them! The overwhelming need to purchase something from Phoebe’s debut collection drove me to acquire these! After so long, I was thrilled to receive a new version of my Phoebe for Chanel shoes because I still adore and wear so many of them. They’re unlike anything else I possess because of their unusual toe shape, and they seem like they’ll go nicely with all of the pants in my closet. I have my eye on the delivery!

Jenna Lyons, the creator of LoveSeen and a real housewife

[I received nothing]. I have a support group chat because I am traumatized. All I wanted was a shirt, some leather, and white pants. And my hopes were cut short.

Goop’s EVP of branding, Noora Raj Brown

I placed three orders out of worry that I wouldn’t be able to check out again since I was in such a panic (my texts were all “my bag is a blank screen” or “the site is crashing and I need the mushroom suit”). I purchased the drop pants, the traditional black square-toe pump, the silver sphere necklace, and the brown-heeled loafers that seemed (kind of?) practical. Silver is making a resurgence, and the long chain and sphere, with their subtle punk twist etching, give it a little edge. I was instantly reminded of an early Philo design I had fallen in love with years ago by the timeless black shoes with their extended toe. “Obviously, they know we need elevated basics even more expensive than The Row,” said a buddy I saw for cocktails later.

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In the intricate tapestry of fashion, Phoebe Philo's debut collection became a captivating chapter, yet within its threads lingered the echoes of unfulfilled desires. As eight enthusiasts explored the seams, they discovered not only what was present but, perhaps more intriguingly, what eluded them—the missing strokes that, in hindsight, defined an era in fashion.