Swiss watchmaker Vanguart is making a name for itself among influential collectors with futuristic designs, innovative mechanical movements and a distinctive approach to traditional haute horlogerie.

Founded in 2018 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the young brand has attracted notable enthusiasts, including musician John Mayer, basketball legend Michael Jordan and technology entrepreneur Sam Altman. Its growing reputation reflects a broader interest in independent watchmakers offering alternatives to established luxury brands.

Vanguart entered the industry in 2019 with the Black Hole, a striking timepiece featuring a vortex-inspired display spread across three discs and a central spinning tourbillon. The design challenged conventional watch aesthetics while retaining the craftsmanship, precision finishing and mechanical complexity associated with traditional Swiss watchmaking.

Its follow-up creation, the Orb, took three years to develop and introduced what the company describes as the world’s first tourbillon with a function selector that switches between manual and automatic modes. The watch helped establish Vanguart’s reputation among collectors seeking unconventional designs with practical everyday appeal.

Traditional Craftsmanship Meets Futuristic Design

Vanguart’s founding team combines technical expertise with a willingness to challenge established industry conventions.

Chief executive Axel Leuenberger and chief technical officer Jérémy Freléchox previously worked at Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi, a respected developer of sophisticated mechanical movements. Creative director and industrial designer Thierry Fischer brought additional experience in experimental product design, while chairman and president Mehmet Koruturk helped define the brand’s broader vision.

According to Yoni Ben-Yehuda, head of watches at Material Good, Vanguart’s exclusive North American retailer, the company distinguishes itself by combining traditional watchmaking techniques with contemporary design and carefully considered ergonomics.

Wearability is a particular priority. The brand invests considerable time in developing cases and straps designed to sit comfortably on the wrist, helping its mechanically complex watches function as everyday accessories rather than occasional statement pieces.

Koruturk believes a new watchmaker must offer a clear reason to exist in an industry already crowded with established names. Vanguart’s approach, he says, is to draw on a deep understanding of traditional haute horlogerie without being constrained by the expectations associated with a long corporate history.

Colorful Ceramic Orbs Expand the Collection

Vanguart has continued to explore new materials and more expressive aesthetics with the introduction of the Orb Pink Ceramic Titanium and Orb Blue Ceramic Rose Gold. Both models are limited to 25 pieces.

Developing the watches’ distinctive ceramic finishes took approximately a year. The company sought to achieve saturated pink and blue colors while maintaining resistance to fading and scratching.

The designs combine ceramic components with a curved, concave structure and a sloped, PVD-coated titanium track. A high-precision micropainting process, commonly used in the automotive industry, helps achieve the coordinated colors across the different elements.

Measuring 41 millimeters in diameter and 10.5 millimeters thick, the new Orbs balance bold visual contrasts with relatively compact proportions.

Fischer describes the development process as a collaboration between creative ambition and engineering discipline. The goal, he explains, is to broaden the brand’s appeal without abandoning the principles that define its identity.

A Small Production Run Attracts High-Profile Collectors

The Orb Blue Ceramic Rose Gold.

Vanguart produces approximately 100 watches annually, a limited output that reinforces its position within the independent watchmaking market.

Its customers include prominent figures in business, music, entertainment and sport, many of whom are drawn to brands that remain relatively unknown outside specialist collector circles.

David J. Adelman, founder and CEO of Darco Capital and co-owner of the Philadelphia 76ers and New Jersey Devils, is among the brand’s enthusiasts. He is frequently seen wearing his titanium Orb and appreciates its versatility for both everyday use and formal occasions.

Adelman says Vanguart appealed to him because it was emerging, distinctive and less mainstream than many established luxury watchmakers. He also values the direct relationship between the company and its collectors, describing the community as an important part of the ownership experience.

That connection has encouraged him to look forward to future releases and seek additional allocations.

For independent watchmakers, such relationships can be especially valuable. Collectors are increasingly knowledgeable about movements, finishing, provenance and design, making originality and execution critical to earning their loyalty.

Collaborations Extend Beyond Watchmaking

The Orb Pink Ceramic Titanium, limited to 25 pieces.

Vanguart has also pursued partnerships that connect its watches with influential figures and major cultural events.

Among its recent projects is a bespoke series of seven Orb Flying Tourbillons commissioned by Sam Altman for selected members of OpenAI. The titanium-cased collection demonstrates the brand’s willingness to develop highly specific creations for individual clients and communities.

Other collaborations have included work with Warner Music during the BRIT Awards, serving as an official timing partner for football’s Ballon d’Or ceremony, and participating in the British Museum Ball.

The brand has also been associated with tennis star Elena Rybakina, whose achievements have helped bring additional attention to its growing network of sporting and cultural relationships.

Koruturk says these partnerships reflect a shared emphasis on individual excellence supported by collective effort. Whether in sport, music or business, he sees success as the product of talent working alongside a wider network of collaborators.

A New Chapter for Vanguart

The trailblazing Orb OpenAI Series in a titanium case, limited to seven pieces.

With plans for a new Swiss manufacturing facility in development and its first decade approaching, Vanguart is positioning itself for further growth.

The challenge will be to maintain its distinctive identity while meeting the expectations of an increasingly discerning collector base. Its limited production, unconventional designs and emphasis on close customer relationships offer a foundation for continued expansion.

For collectors, the attraction lies not only in the watches themselves but also in the opportunity to follow a young brand as it develops its mechanical and creative ambitions.

Vanguart remains a relatively new name in an industry shaped by centuries of tradition. However, its combination of technical expertise, futuristic aesthetics and a tightly connected collector community suggests that the independent watchmaker is intent on becoming more than a passing newcomer to haute horlogerie.