The Row’s Subdued Elegance and Reebok’s Revitalizing Athleticism: Men’s Fashion Highlights from Paris
The Row had an outstanding display, Berluti added a literary touch, Simon Burstein returned with Leathersmith, and Reebok looked revitalized; Wednesday’s presentations highlighted the wide diversity of menswear in Paris.
Elegance in Subtle Form: Menswear from The Row
The Row’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is all about subtle sophistication in menswear, showcasing the epitome of silent luxury. An exquisite stone mansion on rue Capucines, close to the Ritz, serves as the French headquarters of the New York brand, where the newest products were introduced.
The Row’s menswear is defined by mysterious and billowing forms, just as its womenswear is is. Costume staples included long-sleeved, funnel-necked leather jerkins and khaki trench coats with elaborately twisted shawl collars. Known for their exquisite and surprising textiles, such as nylon-like finely combed cotton and practically weightless loose-woven cashmere, founders Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen are still going strong.
A French hôtel particulier is the ideal backdrop for this collection because it is guarded, poised, and unassuming.
Berluti: Timeless Style with a Modern Twist
Berluti’s trademark pieces were showcased in the Spring/Summer 2025 collection. These included the signature wingtip sneaker and the seamless Alessandro gentleman’s shoe. Castleton green and vibrant marmalade are just two of the new patina tones that were added.
The two-pocket windcheaters were available in steely anthracite and delicious amber-burnished cowhide from Berluti. A huge velvet purse featuring the brand’s distinctive Scritto graphic, woven hemp cardigans in a porridge hue, an oatmeal leather collared baseball jacket, and other noteworthy items were also on display.
Remarkable publishers Simone and Cino Del Duca’s mansion at Parc Monceau served as the beautiful setting for the presentation of the collection. Impressive artworks, including a statue of an acrobat by Philippe Hiquily and a sculpture by Jean Touret, called Three Graces, were on exhibit with apparel and accessories. These pieces were loaned by Karl Lagerfeld’s favorite gallery, Yves Gastou. A considerate literary presentation of “The Unbearable Lightness of Being” by Milan Kundera was given to the guests.
Yet, worries regarding the future of the company are growing as it becomes more and more obvious that Berluti has been without a committed creative director for nearly five years.
Return of a Master with Leathersmith Simon Burstein
The Place London, Simon Burstein’s Saint Germain boutique on rue d’Odéon, showcased his return with the Leathersmith collection. It was a highlight. Burstein, who was born in London but has always loved Paris, found inspiration in a collection of cut-out cartoons she found at the Vanves antique market in Paris.
Among the collection’s lighthearted and youthful designs were sweater shirts made of fine cotton featuring catapult-wielding figures, cardigans with dégradé orange windowpane checks, shirts inspired by seersucker, and a jumper in powder blue with Leathersmith writing. Bright wallets, credit card holders, and diaries in buffed and snakeskin leather, some embellished with pictures of Vanves’s boyhood, stood out among the brand’s fine leather goods.
Burstein, an authority in the luxury goods sector and a former CEO of Sonia Rykiel, took great delight in displaying these technological wonders, especially the leather journals.
Revamping a Legendary Brand: Reebok LTD
The third Reebok collection was unveiled by Milan-based New Guards, who had obtained the European license for the brand last year. Reebok is now known as Reebok LTD (Learn. Test. Design). An art gallery in the Marais showcased the newest designs of the Manchester-based sporting business, which was established in 1895, showcasing collaborations and its new Premier range.
Two examples of Botter’s collaborations are the dirty sneakers with turned-up toes and the nylon sports ponchos that combine Botter’s three-pike Antwerp crest with Reebok’s Vector insignia. Boris Bidjan Saberi revolutionized athletic footwear with his fresh spin on classic styles.
After being owned by Adidas for a while, Reebok’s status dropped, and you could get their products at Walmart and other discount stores. Reebok is now in a strong position to make a comeback, thanks to Authentic Brands and New Guards. A white molecular-looking rendition of the renowned air pump shoe, commemorating its 30th anniversary, was one of the notable items.
With enormous room for expansion, Reebok is about to begin an exciting new chapter. The company currently only sponsors one football team, Botafogo of Rio de Janeiro, which is famous for the legendary dribbler Garrincha and does not have a single store in Europe. The fashion industry is bracing for Reebok LTD to make a splash of its own.
