Preserving the abundance of summer produce is a wonderful way to extend the season long after the gardens have faded. Opening a jar in the colder months offers more than just something good to eat; it also holds joy, patience and memories. When winter comes knocking, we are ready with something sweet, sour or salty waiting on the shelf, reminding us that summer will return and the sun will shine again.
Courgette kraut
This kraut can be used much like traditional sauerkraut, though its flavour is milder and its texture more delicate. Sauteed with onions in a little butter or lard, it makes an excellent accompaniment to roast meats and sausages; it can also be added to potato pancakes or used as a filling for savoury pies and pastries.
Prep 5 min
Cook 40 min
Ferment 2 weeks
Makes 3-4 x 650ml jars
2kg courgettes
2 tbsp (25g) granulated sugar
1½ tbsp (25g) salt
65ml distilled white vinegar (8% acidity)
1½ tsp caraway seeds, crushed
Wash the unpeeled courgettes and pat them dry. Cut the courgettes in half lengthways, scrape out the seeds and shred or coarsely grate the flesh into a bowl.
Mix the sugar, salt and vinegar, then pour this over the courgettes. Sprinkle in the caraway seeds, mix well and set aside for 15-30 minutes. Adjust the seasoning to taste, adding sugar or vinegar as required.
Transfer the courgettes to sterilised jars, leaving a space of about 2cm between the veg and the rim of the jar, and making sure everything is completely covered in the liquid. Cover the jars tightly, place them on a rack or folded tea towel in a large pot, add warm water until it comes about three-quarters of the way up the sides of the jars, and keep at a steady at 85-90C (185-195F) for 15 minutes. Carefully lift out the jars, leave to cool completely, then store in a cool, dark place for about two weeks before use.
Fermented bell pepper sauce
You can modify this recipe to suit your taste, by using different types of bell peppers, for example, or replacing some of the peppers with tomatoes, or adding other herbs and spices. You can also use this recipe to make your own hot sauce – just replace the bell peppers with chilli peppers. Fermented bell pepper sauce has a flavour that is reminiscent of the Balkan red pepper condiment ajvar, which means you can use it in a similar way: as a sauce for grilled meat and kebabs, burgers or sandwiches; as a dip for different vegetable side dishes; as an accompaniment for bulgur and couscous; or spread it on toast.
Prep 15 min
Cook 30 min
Ferment 5 days+
Makes 3 x 750ml bottles
1l water
1 tbsp (20g) salt
6 red or orange bell peppers, halved lengthways, stalks, pith and seeds removed and discarded, flesh washed and cut into chunks
3 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, or lovage
1 onion, peeled and cut into wedges
3-5 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
3-6 bay leaves (optional)
To make the brine, put the water in a saucepan, bring to a boil, then leave to cool completely. Add the salt and stir until it’s all dissolved.
Divide the pepper pieces between three sterilised jars, then add a parsley sprig, a few pieces of onion and garlic, and a bay leaf or two, if using, to each one. Leave at least a 3cm gap between the contents of the jar and the rim. Pour the brine over the vegetables – the pepper pieces should be completely covered to prevent contact with the air, so, if need be, use a sterilised fermentation weight to keep them in place. Leave some space between the salt solution and the rim of the jar to allow room for the formation of foam on the surface of the liquid.
Close the jars with their lids, but do not tighten them. Put the jars on a tray or baking sheet and leave in a dark place at room temperature (preferably at 18-21C/65-70F) to ferment for five to seven days: the exact time will depend on the temperature of the room (a warmer temperature speeds up the fermentation process). Check and taste the contents of the jars regularly (always use an impeccably clean fork) – the peppers are ready when no more bubbles form or the foam dissipates, and they should now have a pleasantly sour and mildly spicy taste.
Fine-strain the contents of the jars and collect the liquid. Discard the bay leaves. Puree the vegetables and herbs until thick and creamy, diluting the sauce, if need be, with some of the reserved liquid. Fill sterilised bottles with the sweet pepper sauce and use immediately or store in the fridge.
