The world of luxury watchmaking is often defined by tradition, but every so often, a brand dares to challenge the status quo. In 1998, Bulgari did just that with the launch of the Bulgari Aluminium, a watch that boldly combined unconventional materials—aluminium and rubber—to create a new kind of luxury. Relaunched in 2020 with a mechanical heart, the collection has remained a symbol of modern elegance and a nod to the brand’s Roman spirit. Now, in 2025, Bulgari is once again pushing creative boundaries by introducing a new, “living” material to this iconic line: bronze.
This new chapter, dubbed the Bvlgari Bronzo, is a dialogue between the timeless design of the Aluminium collection and a material with a history as old as civilization itself. Unlike other metals, bronze develops a unique patina over time, a surface that tells the story of the wearer’s life and travels. This characteristic makes each timepiece truly one-of-a-kind, an evolving piece of art on the wrist.
The addition of bronze is more than just a material update; it is a creative evolution. As Jonathan Birnbaum, Managing Director of Bulgari Watches, notes, “The essence of the Bulgari Bulgari lies in the combination of materials.” He highlights that the new bronze alloy is not only resilient but also “alive,” with its warm, masculine hue evolving over time to create a unique and personal piece.
The Bvlgari Bronzo collection makes its debut in two striking interpretations: the GMT and the Chronograph. Both models embody a spirit of strength, sophistication, and a passion for travel, a perfect fit for a brand rooted in global influence.
- The Bulgari Bronzo GMT: This model offers a refined take on the dual time display, a crucial complication for modern travelers. Encased in 40mm of bronze, its slim profile (just 9.7mm high) is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The case contrasts beautifully with a deep black rubber bezel and a matte black dial, where rose-gilt hands provide clear legibility. A 24-hour GMT disc on the flange, paired with an arrow-tipped central hand, allows for an intuitive reading of a second time zone. Powering this watch is the automatic Caliber B192, which is based on the Sellita movement and provides a 50-hour power reserve.
- The Bulgari Bronzo Chronograph: This timepiece showcases the expressive power of bronze on a larger scale. With a 41mm diameter and a height of 12.3mm, its sandblasted case is paired with a black rubber bezel and strap, creating a bold, graphic contrast. The matte black dial features three azurage counters and a tachymeter scale, all paired with rose-gold hands for a design that is both harmonious and highly legible. The self-winding Caliber B381, which uses a Sellita SW300 base with a Dubois-Dépraz chronograph module, provides a 42-hour power reserve and is also water-resistant to 100 meters.
The Audacity of Octo Finissimo
In addition to the new Bronzo line, Bulgari also spotlighted its commitment to ultra-thin watchmaking with a retrospective of the Octo Finissimo collection, a series that has broken numerous records over the past decade. Within this context, the brand unveiled two new timepieces that demonstrate both technical audacity and a remarkable artistic vision.
- The Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari: This collaboration with Korean-born painter and philosopher Lee Ufan is a timepiece of quiet intensity. It explores the artistic theme of contrast, specifically between the permanence of a rock and the infinite reflection of a mirror. The watch features a mirrored dial, a true focal point, housed within a hand-finished titanium case and bracelet that measures just 5.5mm high. Each of the 150 pieces is an intimate work of art, marked with Lee Ufan’s signature on the transparent case back. The watch is powered by the ultra-slim automatic Caliber BLV 138, a movement that is only 2.23mm thick yet provides a 60-hour power reserve.
- The Octo Finissimo Marble Tourbillon: While titanium and mirrors speak to philosophical reflection, marble speaks to Roman grandeur. Long associated with cultural power, marble is a notoriously difficult material for watchmaking due to its fragility. Yet, Bulgari, known for pushing material boundaries, has created a stunning new version with a dial carved from deep-blue Italian marble. The timepiece, with its 4.8mm-high, 40mm-diameter platinum case, is a masterpiece of elegance and technical virtuosity. It houses the BVL 268 caliber, a hand-wound movement that is only 1.95mm thick and features a flying tourbillon and a power reserve of 52 hours. Limited to just 30 pieces, this watch is paired with a blue alligator leather strap, completing its refined and exclusive look.
A Legacy of Innovation
Bulgari’s latest releases at Geneva Watch Days 2025 are more than just new watches; they are a testament to a brand that continues to evolve without losing sight of its core identity. From the Bvlgari Bronzo and its celebration of a “living” material to the record-breaking and artistically daring Octo Finissimo models, Bulgari remains at the forefront of watchmaking, proving that true luxury is not about static perfection but about a dynamic blend of heritage, innovation, and personal connection.
