Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Convergence made a striking debut last year, described at the time as a bold new direction for the maison. The watch, with its mirror-polished rose gold case and unconventional guichet display, immediately set itself apart as an object of both technical confidence and visual restraint. Now, unveiled at LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton returns with a more elaborate interpretation of the same idea, elevating the Tambour Convergence through a painstakingly executed hand-guilloché façade.
At its core, the new Tambour Convergence remains faithful to the proportions and architecture of the original model. The case is crafted from 18-carat rose gold and measures 37mm in diameter with a slim 8mm profile. There is no platinum version this time, underscoring the focus on material warmth and visual depth. The case retains the Tambour collection’s distinctive tapered, brushed flanks, which lend the watch a grounded yet assertive presence on the wrist. Sculpted lugs with hollowed sides combine polished and sandblasted finishes, adding subtle complexity without distracting from the dial-side artistry.
Powering the watch is the same automatic calibre, the LFT MA01.01, operated via a tapered, signed, and knurled crown. The movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers a power reserve of 45 hours, supported by 26 colourless jewels. Viewed through the sapphire caseback, the calibre reveals a free-sprung balance and an 18-carat rose gold rotor. When the rotor swings clear, sandblasted bridges and sharply polished chamfers come into view, reflecting the finishing standards established at La Fabrique du Temps.
The movement drives continuously rotating hour and minute discs, both turning clockwise. As a result, the numerals are printed in reverse order, a detail that can initially feel counterintuitive. However, the broad aperture ensures that the upcoming hour is always visible, allowing the display to remain intuitive once the eye adjusts. The apertures themselves retain their distinctive shape, inspired by the rising sun, anchoring the design in a subtle celestial reference.
What defines this year’s edition is the transformation of the watch’s once mirror-smooth façade into a richly textured surface shaped by traditional guilloché techniques. Louis Vuitton has layered the sun motif more deeply into the design, surrounding the apertures with undulating rays and a rippling halo that radiates across the entire front of the watch. To achieve this effect, the brand relied on two historic hand-operated machines restored in-house at La Fabrique du Temps. A rose engine dating back to 1850 was used to create the circular guilloché pattern, while a straight-line engine from 1935 produced the sunray engraving at the centre.
Arriving at the final result was far from straightforward. Approximately 20 trial attempts were required, spanning more than six months, before the engravings reached the desired balance of depth, rhythm, and reflectivity. One of the hidden challenges lies in the shape of the façade itself. Slightly domed, the surface demands constant adjustments in pressure from the artisan to ensure even engraving across the curve. The guilloché cuts must also be deeper than what ultimately appears, as the entire façade is polished again after engraving, reducing the visible depth while enhancing the play of light.
In total, decorating a single watch requires around 16 hours of focused manual work. The margin for error is virtually nonexistent. A single slip means starting again from the beginning, adding to the intensity and precision demanded of the craftsperson. The result, however, is a surface that appears alive, shifting character with every change in angle and illumination.
While the original Tambour Convergence already stood out for its purity and bold simplicity, this new guilloché edition introduces a layer of visual drama without compromising the watch’s architectural clarity. Though seen only in images so far, the way the engraved façade interacts with light suggests a dynamic presence that photographs can only partially convey. The pressure borne by the artisan during its creation is invisible to the wearer, who is left free to enjoy the result as an object of quiet spectacle.
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Guilloché is priced at €59,500, US$58,500, or £51,500. It is paired with a blue calfskin strap and secured by an 18-carat rose gold pin buckle, completing a watch that sits confidently at the intersection of heritage technique and contemporary design.
